Vienna Sept
16,17,18,19,20,21 - Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Day 3 Friday Sept 16 - On the train to Vienna for our 4-5
hour trip.
While on the train a cute little boy in
the seat in front of me was bored so started flirting with me. I
played along and soon we were friends. The family is from Iran.
They were world travelers. The father had gone to college in the
US. She had been to Vienna many times before because her father
had gotten his degree in surgery here. So they knew their way
around. As we talked Deb figured out or guessed they were going
to the same Hotel we were going to - amazing.
We got to the Wein-Meidling station where we took the U-Bahn
(Metro) to Westbahnhof, changed trains and went to our stop,
Neubaugasse on the U3 orange line, in downtown Vienna. We
were not real close to the "ring" area which is where most
tourists spend their time.
The "Hotel Pension Corvinus"
on Mariahilfer Strasse was very nice. A bit off the main tourist
areas. We were on the third floor the room
was a little small. The best shower of the whole trip.
Unfortunately the toilet was attached to
the wall and was such that my feet did not touch the floor,
quite uncomfortable. The owner/managers were very nice and like
family. There was a sitting area with a shared computer available. The WiFi didn't work
well in our room, it could be my Nook has a weak antenna.
We were pretty pooped. I could hear an oompah band and a busy
square just below our window. We went down got a table and had a beer and a sausage while watching the passing scene.
Our friends from the train came by. The
square was in front of a church next to our building.
We relaxed and took a nap.
We decided to hike down to the Ringstraussa.
I was told it was about ten minutes away. Unfortunately we went
in the wrong direction and walked for about 30 minutes. We were
pooped. We stopped in a restaurant for
the bathroom then hiked back. Not a good
experience.
The hotel guy suggested a place for dinner a few blocks away. We
hiked over and had a simple dinner and a beer. It turns out this
is a "7 Stern Brau", more about that later. Then back to our
hotel and to bed.
Day 4 - Saturday Sept 17. We diddled around getting breakfast
because they were quite busy. Breakfast was rather limited. I
was happy to see my little friend and family
next to us at breakfast.
We then took the U-Bahn to Volkstheater and went to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. A bit of a hassle getting to the
entry. This is a world class exhibit of
the Hapsburg's' art collection, including Raphael, Titian,
Caravaggio, Bosch, and Bruegel (to quote RS). A huge place.
These few pictures do not began to show what is here.
We were really hoping to see Cellini's salt cellar.
We had recently read his autobiography and knew it was a big
deal. The area for it was undergoing a refurbish and they
weren't displaying it. What!? Why couldn't they have displayed
it someplace else? The museum was big enough.
We had an elegant lunch in
the museum including an apple strudel.
It also had an amazing collection of objects from Egypt, Rome and
everywhere. Essentially no explanations in English, maybe the
audio tour would have explained what we were seeing. We were
pretty tired and skated through this section.
Back to our room for a nap.
We now went back to Museumplatz to take
the #2 tram loop ride around the
Ringstrasse. RS has an mp3 guided tour of going around the loop.
As I mentioned before most of the tourist stuff is in inside
this ring. The tram was a bit dumpy and jerky. We started from
the Opera House. As we went along we
listened to the mp3 descriptions. The tram then stopped for
about twenty minutes while they changed drivers. When we finally
got rolling again it appeared we had veered off the Ringstrasse.
I wanted to ask the driver but delayed and delayed.
Finally when I asked about the Opera House he said the route had
been changed and it was no longer the #2 but now was the #38! He
said I needed to get off and take the #38 in the other
direction! Damn! We jumped off and looked around. There was a
U-Bahn station nearby so seeing we know it's fast and we are
familiar with it we decided to take it. The station was an above
ground platform with no maps or information so we didn't know if
we were on the correct side or not. I asked a local and he
didn't speak a word of English but tried to be helpful. He did
what we all do when somebody doesn't speak our language - he
spoke slowly and loudly and repeated his words. Of course we
still didn't communicate. Meanwhile Debbie was having a
"bathroom" problem which increased the pressure.
We got on the train. I looked at the map there and
found we were going the wrong way. But the U-Bahn in Vienna has
about six lines so with a couple transfers we got to our stop.
Whew! Screw RS and his #2 line. Apparently the change was done
because there was a large neighborhood party someplace on the
line causing the trains to have to stop.
Back to our room for a break.
We went to dinner at a different "7 Stern Brau". A really authentic
brewery. It is huge. We hiked all over trying to find an
appropriate place to eat. They have tables in a large courtyard
and a good size place for smokers to eat. Back inside there are
various rooms plus the rather large bar. We ate in a small room.
The best dinner yet. I had pork with
sauce, spatzel and the best sauerkraut I've ever had. Deb had goulash with a dumpling plus a couple beers as big as
your head.
On the way out we discovered they had a beer
vending machine in their lobby so for a couple Euros we bought a
.5l bottle of beer for the room. Very
nice. We walked home
and went to bed.
Day 5 Sunday Sept 18 - Rode the U-Bahn to the Opera House. Did RS's walk through the inner
loop. We had a torte and coffee at the Hotel Sacher or the
famous Sacher Torte, plus an apple
strudel. Quite good in an elegant place
though pricy (E22+). At the Albertina Platz we looked at the Monument
Against War and Fascism. Took a look at the Kaisergruft church
which holds fancy coffins of the Hapsburg's. We didn't go in. Saw the fountain
of the four rivers of the Hapsburg Empire. Hiked up Karntner
Strasse which is a shopping street. We
looked at St. Stevens on Stephansplatz.
Apparently we went inside. We looked at
the plague monument. Many cities have
plague monuments thanking God for sparing them. At the Kohlmarkt
we stopped into the shop Demel, the ultimate chocolate shop.
They make things from marzipan and
chocolate which look like sandwiches and other things. Interesting.
We then did the Hofburg Palace first
seeing the Kaiserappartements. Deb skated us through. I would of
liked a little more time to see the rooms. Basically an elegant
living area. Besides the rooms and furnishings there was a vast
collection of household items including plates, silver, place settings, candelabras, etc. We took a few minutes for
a small lunch of some hot dogs and beer
in a little place near the castle.
After much searching we found the Weltliche und
Geistliche Schatzkammer or Treasury. RS says they are the best
jewels on the continent and maybe he's right. 21 rooms filled
with scepters, swords, crowns, orbs,
weighty robes, double-headed eagles,
gowns, gem-studded bangles and a unicorn
horn. Plus Napoleons child's bed. Pretty amazing.
We went back to the "7 Stern Brau" for dinner. I had vienerschnitzel with German potato
salad. Deb had another stew with
gnocchi. We bought another beer
from the vending machine. They have a great smokey beer here.
Deb says it tastes like smoked almonds. Then to bed.
Day 6 Monday Sept 19 - U-Bahn to the opera then a hike over to
the famous Naschmarkt. It was cold and
rainy. It was an interesting place but pretty empty. Probably
because of the weather. It was pretty impressive with stands selling everything
you could think of including a place that specialized in vinegars. Many various restaurants too.
We walked over to the "Succession" to see
a Klimt piece and other exhibitions. The museum was built for
the guys doing the succession movement.
Klimt was one of the major guys. We were there mainly to see the
Beethoven Frieze. I wasn't too impressed though I like some of
the other stuff.
We took the tram over to Belvedere castle
to see more Klimt and others. It was freezing cold
and windy. This castle was built for the
Prince of Savoy who conquered the Ottomans. He died with no
heirs so the state turned it into Austria's first public art
museum.
This was a very impressive museum. We were mainly
there to see Klimt's "The Kiss"
and other famous paintings of his. We were not disappointed. We
about fainted when we walked into one of the rooms and saw a
famous painting of Napoleon
on his horse in the winter Moscow campaign. There were many good
things here.
We exited and went across the street to a small Greek restaurant. We were disappointed with the
menu so got back on the tram where we met
some Korean girls. Back home. We went to the upstairs "7 Stern
Brau" for a light lunch.
We went back to our room and mainly did
little until dinner time. Back to the "7 Stern Brau" brewery for our final dinner
and vending machine beer.
Also hit the ATM for money to pay our room tomorrow and save a
few Euros.
At some point we went to Westbanhof and got our train
reservations.
Day 7 Wednesday Sept 21 - Our final breakfast
at the Corvinus Hotel. We U-Bahned to
Westbanhof and took the 9:54am train to
Budapest.
Comments -
- Something wrong with my time line here.
- The room was small but the shower made up for it.
- The WiFi only worked in the hall area. They had a public
computer in the hall area. It tended to be busy.
- I should have had more sausages. Many are home made.
- The brewery "7 Stern Brau" was a highlight. There were two
versions here. The one down stairs was the best. It may be a
chain.