The trip to Greece was everything and more than we expected. The weather was perfect the whole time. Not cold at night not too warm during the day and no rain.
The trip was through EF (?). It was really designed for educators and students, plus interested others. We joined a group of teachers and friends from Debbie's school - Leland High in San Jose's Almaden Valley. We joined up with another group from Fairfield High in California, a Florida group and other smaller groups as we went. We had two students with our group, of the sixty or so in the entire group there were about a dozen students.
I'll try to cover it in chronological order -
We left about 5pm on
Thursday,
California
time. After flying for a bunch of hours we landed in Munich. Seeing we
had a six hour layover EF (the travel company) arranged a tour of
Munich
for us. On our drive into town it was pointed out that we had a
perfect
view of the Alps which is very unusual. This was because they were
having
a fehrn - a warm wind from Italy over the Alps which clears the air.
While
there we drove past the site of the 74 Olympics. The stadiums and the
weird
fiberglass covers were really interesting. We then went to some
place
that is a knock off of the palace of Versailles
in
France.
Fantastic! However, because it was Good Friday it was pretty
much closed. We decided not go in because it cost about $10 per person
and we only had a few minutes. We then went down town and had a
strolling
tour that took us past some interesting old architecture
. We were to meet at the Glockenspiel
-
the
original one. It was really beautiful though a bit chilly and
windy.
We sat in the square and had a German beer. Unfortunately the
Glockenspiel
did not ring at the time we expected (5pm).
Then back to the plane and on to Greece.
We got into our beautiful (hmmm) hotel Oscar in Athens
about
11pm -
as I remember it.
One of the highlights of Greece was the toilets. At the
airport they actually had a container for used toilet paper. Everyplace
we went there were "low flow" toilets... rather distressing. However,
everything
was very clean everyplace we went. We constantly saw people cleaning.
It's
a national pastime.
Up the next morning at the crack of dawn for breakfast in the hotel. Turns out the Greeks don't understand breakfast. They might have a coffee but that's all. So breakfasts were pretty hit and miss. One of the staples was baloney - really. Actually the hotel Oscar probably had the best breakfasts on the whole trip.
We zipped off to the Acropolis in our bus. On the way we
stopped and
saw some of those nifty guards with the white skirts and puffs on their
shoes, marching. We trotted around in
a
stadium built for the first modern Olympic games in 1896.
The traffic was interesting. Crowded and scary. But after
a while you realize that they are actually pretty courteous to each
other.
Everyone seemed to be taking turns, very few honking horns and I didn't
see any anger. But God help the driver that flinches. It seemed like
mostly
they were just coping with the difficult situation of narrow streets,
lots
of construction and too many cars.
When we got to the Acropolis a guide met us and gave a
lecture about what we were going to see. While she was talking I looked
over a stone railing and directly down into the theater
where "Yanni At The Acropolis" was done. Pretty neat. Apparently Deb
and
I were the only ones that took a look.
The Acropolis was fantastic! Really big! The day was clear
so the views were terrific. The Parthenon
had been mostly destroyed in the 1600s when some troops stored
munitions
there which accidentally blew up and pretty much collapsed the temple.
We could see the restoration equipment.
I guess a question for the people restoring these things is
to what level do you restore things. There have been temples here on
various
levels for 2500 years. In fact they removed a Christian church that was
over 1000 years old. I guess the goal is to restore to the Golden age
which
is 400-500 BC. Even at that the Acropolis was destroyed and rebuilt at
least twice during those years.
We went to the Plaka for lunch. It's the old
part
of town
with narrow twisty streets, teeny houses and lots of tourist shops.
There
were tons of coffee shops everywhere. In fact every place we went in
Greece
had coffee shops with tables on the sidewalks. Really neat. The Greeks
take the time from 2 to 5 everyday to nap or do personal business or
eat
lunch and drink coffee.
We had lunch with the tour guide at a place she suggested.
Very good. Fresh bread, some tadziki dip for it, retsina wine,
and
the best Greek salad of all time. The tomatoes seemed just picked and
the
feta cheese was from heaven. I don't remember what all we ate but it
was
really good.
Then we hit the Plaka for a walking tour. This girl didn't
want us to miss a thing. We walked and walked and walked and walked. We
were pooped when we were done. But we saw it all. If I were rich enough
to have them shipped home I would have bought some neat odd old beatup
musical instruments I saw in a junk shop window.
We even saw preparations for the funeral of the archbishop
of Greece who had just died. If we weren't wearing shorts we could have
gone into the church for a viewing. TV cameras were in place and
reporters
were out front.
We took a taxi back to the hotel.
That night we were scheduled to see the light and sound show of the Acropolis. The city of Athens canceled it so Deb, Peg and I grabbed a taxi and went out on the town. He took us to a place in the Plaka with Greek soul music. It was rather expensive but there was a six piece Greek band that played from the time we arrived until the time we left several hours later. They had an eight person dance troupe that did about six different dances in six different costumes. And a belly dancer. It was fantastic!
Up at dawn the next morning for a bus trip to
Pireas which
is the modern port for Athens, several miles away. We got on a boat for
a trip to three islands in the Saronic Gulf. It was a big boat and took
quite a long time to get to there.
First was Hydra (pronounced hee-dra) a picture perfect
Greek island. Whitewashed buildings hanging on a hill, pretty churches,
neat shops, beautiful little harbor, etc. One mode of transportation
was
horses. We walked up some of the narrow winding streets and got a
couple
peeks into really quaint courtyards and houses. No cars or motor bikes
allowed. We did see a garbage truck though. The island is
absolutely
beautiful.
We then tore over to Poros which I barely remember.
I think we jumped off and had a cup of Greek coffee.
We then went to Aegina (with a hard "g"). We were
scheduled
to take a bus trip to the top to see the ruins of the temple of Aphaia
, one of the nicest places. We're lucky we're alive. That bus was
flying
up that hill. Hotter then hell, exhaust coming in and sheer cliffs. We
all reviewed a few prayers from childhood. The temple was really neat.
Then back to the bus... On the way down we stopped for a few minutes at
the monestary/church or the sanctuary of St. Nectarios. They were
having
services so we couldn't go in but a quick trip through the grounds was
really neat. Then back to the ship, which had waited for us and back to
Athens. On the return trip there was a show on board with singing and
Greek
dancing.
That night was open but we went to bed - as I recall.
Up at dawn and load up the bus for our
journey to
Delphi
(pronounced Delfee) and beyond. It was about a three hour drive with a
short stop in a village that is known for it's rugs
. This trip was through the country side and up into the mountains. The
village was hanging on the side of a mountain. They rent ski equipment
there and is oriented toward winter sports. I had the impression
that they had been catering to tourists for a few thousand years. The
mountains
had quite a bit of snow on them. On to Delphi.
Delphi was fantastic!
A very religious feeling here. I told some of the people on the bus
that
there was a crashed spaceship under the site and the homing beacon was
calling us to come there. Why else would a bus load of Americans
from California be in this remote place? I also said that the way the
walls
around Thebes were erected in on day by a Cyclops, was that the Cyclops
was a guy in a space suit using an antigravity device (Twilight Zone
music
here). Then during the lecture the guide said that when the Persians
came
to attack some people came out of the temple dressed in very odd
uniforms
and were able to kill people at a distance. Woo woo woo woo Woo
woo
woo woo. But actually it was very moving. They had a real neat
stadium
there too. Deb took a really good picture of me there.
Back on the bus and down the hill. We took a ferry boat
across the straight at the mouth of the Corinthian Gulf. We then
stopped
for lunch at a big tourist place. At first we were disappointed. But
the
food was good, the wine and olives were interesting, the conversation
refreshing and the view was spectacular. We hated to go. But we did.
Back on the bus and on to the Florida
Beach
Hotel in Patra. The beach didn't exactly match up to Florida
and the hotel room wasn't exactly the Ritz. But they had porn on the
TV!
Oh my God what about the teenagers?! I guess they are all going to hell
(I, of course, diverted my eyes).
After a nice dinner we adjourned to the bar. It was really
small but pretty. The waitress spoke almost no English. This is where
we
tried Ouzo. Not bad, sort of licorice flavor. But I switched over to
Mythos
beer. A couple of girls wanted to play hearts so we had a rip roaring
game
of hearts. There was a chick in the bar, that I should have gotten a
picture
of, smoking cigarettes and adding atmosphere - whew. About the
time
we were reaching a crescendo the teenagers came down and added some
noise.
Suddenly, oh my Gawd! One of the teenage boys was dressed as a girl,
makeup,
dress and all. He actually looked pretty
good
. It was a bet, I guess. Anyway that shocked the locals, to say nothing
of the Californians (he was from Florida).
Next day, packed up and got on the bus. We
went to
Olympia
, site of the original Olympic games. It was fantastic. Huge! There
were
more ruins here then anyplace else. Our guide was an older woman with a
pretty heavy accent but really worth listening to. The place is so big
that we barely covered it once. The Judas trees were in full bloom -
beautiful
pink/purple blossoms. In fact everyplace we went there were wild
flowers
blooming. It would have been amazing to have seen this place at it's
peak.
At one time there were (can this be correct?) 3000 statues of various
athletes.
This is my favorite place after the Acropolis.
We had lunch in the local town of Olympia. Pretty good.
Deb and I ran down the hill to look for her sunglasses that she thought
she had left that morning. Nope, they were in her jacket on the bus.
We then took a long drive to the town of Tolo
which is an Athenian resort town on the Argolic Gulf near Nauplion
(Nafplio).
The rooms here left much to be desired - no tv, three beds crammed wall
to wall, the sliding door didn't lock and of course those bathrooms. By
the way there were never showers as we know them. It's just a
shower
thingy on a hose. This place didn't even have a shower curtain. We sort
of sat in the tub and tried to get clean. At least everyplace we went
they
had soft water and everything was clean. When we took showers the water
splashed all over the place. Several places had key locks from Draculas
castle. You needed to schedule extra time for locking and unlocking the
doors in these places and God help you if you had to get out quickly.
Dinner was pretty bad. Except the spaghetti with sauce
was OK.
But we found the town of Tolo! Really a neat tourist place
- discos, restaurants, bars, shops, noise, people, excitement. We
looked
at jewelry stores and had a couple of drinks at a local place.
Everything
is cheap.
Back on the bus! As we were driving the guide
pointed out
houses with rebar sticking out of them. Most single family houses are
cast
concrete and look like one floor is about 1000sq ft or more. But when
the
first floor is built they have rebar sticking up so another floor or
house
can be built on top for the next generation. We saw some that were four
houses high. That probably means four generations are living there.
Once
it had been pointed out we saw those houses everywhere.
This day we started by going to Epidauros. This is the
sanctuary of Asklepios. He was born after his mother died so he knew
the
secrets of the underworld. Because of this his symbol is the snake
which
lives underground. His knowledge allowed him to become a great healer.
He also had great knowledge of herbal medicine. This is why there is a
snake on the doctors symbol the caduceus. There is a magnificent theater
here. The most outstanding of the ancient world. No kidding you can
stand
on the center spot and talk normally and be heard in the back row. Not
much else remains here. A lot of these sites had been raided by the
local
population for building materials.
We then went to Mycenae. It is a fantastic ancient citadel
on a hill. A very moving place. It dates to before 1200 BC ~ 3200 years
ago! It was lived in for at least 1000 years. It looks sort of like a
pile
of rocks now but must have been
fantastic
at the time. It's still pretty fantastic. There is a shaft
grave there which was recklessly excavated down to where they
began finding gold masks and other magnificent objects that had been
buried
with important people including Agamemnon. The famous gold mask of
Agamemnon
came from here - it's really his great great great grandfathers mask.
Nearby there is a reconstructed beehive
style tomb called the Tomb of Clytemenestra. It's a big room made of
blocks
and shaped like a beehive. There is a smaller treasure room next to it.
Apparently this had been raided centuries ago so not much was found.
Several
of these tombs exist in this area.
On our way back we stopped and took a quick peak at the
Corinthian Canal . If this canal had
been
there 2500 years ago it probably would have changed the course of
history.
Many different groups attempted to construct it during the ages. It's
surprisingly
narrow and short. You can easily see from one end to the other.
Back to Athens this evening and check into the Pythagorean hotel. The elevator was slow but the rooms weren't too bad. We found that they had rescheduled the light show on the Acropolis and we were scheduled to go. Unfortunately a group had arrived late and was in the hotel restaurant/cafeteria room. We sort of kicked them out and gulped our food and hit the bus for the show. I was concerned that it was going to be two hours long of translations into five languages. But the show was in English and lasted about 20 minutes. On our way out a group of French (or was it Germans) were waiting to go in. The show was OK. 20 minutes is plenty.
Our final day! We had the morning free. Many
went
to the
Plaka but we decided to go to the Archeological Museum. It always gets
four stars. It was magnificent! Many famous statues and art pieces
including
the Statue of Poseidon, the mask of
Agamemnon, many famous sculptures and artifacts.
We
went
down to the basement to see the gift shop and visit the bathrooms.
There were reproductions of a lot of things sitting around - all full
size
and high quality. I was admiring the head
of
Poseidon thinking it must cost $1000 when Peg came by with a
price list. Damn! It was less then $150. So I bought it. We mistakenly
thought it was of bronze sheeting but it was plaster. They packed it up
so we could take it as luggage on the plane.
Lunch was a trip. A taxi driver took us from the museum
to the Pythagorean hotel to drop off Poseidon and then took us to a
restaurant
about a million miles out of the way for an authentic Greek lunch. I
guess
we didn't understand exactly what we were getting into, but we had a
magnificent
lunch
- seafood, many appetizer dishes - everything fresh and delicious. It
was
expensive and we didn't have time to enjoy it as we should have. We
scrambled
back to the hotel for our next sojourn.
After lunch we boarded the bus to go well south of Athens
to Sounion where Poseidon's temple
is
located.
Its a very beautiful drive down the coast looking into the
Saronic Gulf. The temple was beautiful, in a beautiful setting on
a hill with a magnificent view of the sea. It was used as a lookout
point
to guard against the Persians coming around the point.
Back to Athens and get ready for our authentic Greek night
out! We got dressed, jumped on the bus and ended up at the same place
Deb,
Peg and I had been the first night. Only this time we were wedged down
a side hallway. It was bad - no view, no sound, no room, waiters
stepping
on us, everyone disappointed and upset. So we gobbled our food and hit
the Plaka. Deb bought some jewelry and stuff and I looked at people
while
the shop owners closed up.
Up at 4am to catch the bus to the airport! A miserable trip home. Mostly because of the long layovers - three hours in Gatwick airport, three hours in St. Louis and one thousand hours on airplanes. On the last leg I sat next to Man Mountain Malone and was squeezed. My ankles swelled up like balloons.
It was an excellent adventure. Here are some miscellaneous comments -
- I read a college textbook on Grecian history and found it profoundly helpful in understanding what I was seeing.
- I found the Michelin guide to be the best of the ones we bought for giving historical context and layouts of the sites. Other people had good looking guides too.
- I wish I had had a good road map of the area. My maps were like global shots, not enough detail.
- I read a comic book like book on Greek mythology as well as some of Bullfinches Mythology. I found the comic book to be about right. Bullfinch is good but takes too long if your time is limited.
- I should have used the binoculars I brought along more then I did.
- Get up and walk around the plane before your ankles turn into water balloons and pop.
- If you wonder if you should take a picture - you probably should.
- I learned the Greek alphabet before I went and found it to be a worthwhile thing to do. It was fun reading the signs. Unfortunately they were still in Greek. But many of them were understandable such as apothecary and on a McDonald's it had "Birthday Party" in Greek letters.
- The Poseidon bust was broken when we got it home. Not too bad and only in the shoulder and back areas. It's so big I'm not sure what we are going to do with it. It looks great in our living room.
- I wish we would have had more time to sit, have coffee, relax and watch the scene. But we now have a reason to return.
I took over 200 slides. If I ever get them back and converted to pictures I'll put some here.